Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a select list of world cities and igniting hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this status, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across over 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this time-honored city comes as no surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, lively, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense love for food.
"'What's for dinner, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are often evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on many street corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The process of making it is precise and involved. The cook whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however note that their children do not want to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these tales and experience the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
